How Viennoiserie Came to France
Until 2009, the history of the croissant centered on a siege of Vienna and Marie-Antoinette. Then this book appeared. Since then an increasing number of sources have acknowledged the role of August Zang and his Boulangerie Viennoise in making the croissant French. The work has been cited in several books:
and on a number of Web sites:
Years after it first appeared, this book remains the only in-depth account of how this Austrian artillery officer brought the croissant to France - and transformed French baking in the process.
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In late 1839, the French writer Saint-Beuve wrote to a friend: “We are all to go eat some cake Tuesday at a very splendid and very delectable Viennese bakery.” This Viennese bakery - Boulangerie Viennoise - had been opened by an Austrian artillery officer, August Zang. Among other typical Austrian fare, Zang's bakers made kipfel, the crescent-shaped roll that had existed in Austria since at least the thirteenth century. Soon French "Viennese bakeries" opened, and made what the French called a "crescent", or croissant. But the bakery's influence went well beyond introducing this iconic pastry, and August Zang would go on to immense success, not in baking, but as a press magnate.
Some samples from the book
"Though many authors do not even bother to mention the distinction,
older tales about the croissant in fact concern the kipfel. In such tellings,
the kipfel is essentially treated as being a croissant under another name.
This is not unlike discussing the mammoth and calling it an elephant. How
many croissants, like the “pinnacle-cake” cited above, contain lard?
I have found nothing [in London] comparable to our first quality of split white breads, to our so-called coffee rolls, to our fancy rolls called viennese, of dextrin, gruau, croissants...(1850)"
"August Zang began his adult life as an officer and ended it as a wealthy banker and mine-owner. His involvement in the bakery business was brief, a way-station on the road to his real success, and possibly even an embarrassment to him in later years. Future generations might have found this ironic, had those most affected not been blissfully unaware of his impact on their daily life."
Table of Contents
And now, two follow-ups (on-line) to the book
From Appleton's Journal of Literature, Science and Art (1872):
In 1848, a man appeared in Vienna who has entirely revolutionized journalism in the Austrian capital. This bold reformer, the father of the daily Vienna press of today, was neither a littérateur of extraordinary ability nor a poor journalist, favored by Fortune, but a baker, named August Zang.
All text and translations copyright 2009 Jim Chevallier.
Please do not reproduce or post elsewhere without prior permission.
Interested in historical cuisine? Here are three other books from Chez Jim:
the French kings really did eat peacocks - and swans, and herons, and
blackbirds too. Taillevent, the cook who served two of them, not only cooked
these dishes, but left a book on how to do it. He called it Le Viandier.
In this new translation, it's called: How To
Cook A Peacock ·
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How To Cook A Peacock
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· For adventurous cooks
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This collection includes recipes for game, veal, beef, chicken and various sauces, salads and other tasty items, worth making on their own or as part of a full, elegant period meal.
The second volume in this series presents VEGETARIAN recipes from Old Regime France. No, it's not a modern gimmick - in Catholic France, meat was forbidden on some days, and so one of the choices was this "meal of roots"; including not only carrots, parsnips, beets, turnips, etc., but also lentils and peas, onions, artichokes and asparagus.
This collection includes over 100 recipes for soups, stews, salads, sweets, even... mock fish, made from vegetables of every sort (and even a fish or two).
UPDATED: August 24, 2015